Water power at Stenkrith İAnn Sandell

Further on via the Millennium Bridge

The underworld

Downstream

Railway Past 

High Stenkrith

Turn down the road at the traffic lights where the old finger post sign points to Reeth 22m0f and Hawes 16m3f, then go up a small hill, and you'll see the vista of Nine Standards, Tailbrig and Mallerstang Edge come into view.

But your  destination is much closer than that, and just as spectacular.

(By the way, the Plusbus passes this way on its journey to Nateby, you can walk the back lanes from Frank's Bridge or there is limited parking at the entrance to Stenkrith.)

Through the kissing gate or the larger wooden gate, we shall first explore the park itself.

Follow the track downhill and please be careful with your footing as there are many uneven areas, roots and holes between rocks hidden by grass for the unwary.

Past the large rockery on the right and on down you will catch your first glimpse of the River Eden on your right as it emerges from beneath the bridges.

At this point and again a little further down the beck on the left washes over the path and falls into the river. When it is in flood in the winter it can be quite spectacular.

Art in the park

On the right are the first of two sets of the ‘Poetry Path’ carved stones that are in the park. The full walk contains 12 works of carved stones depicting a year in the life of a hill farmer. The poems were written by Meg Peacock and carved by lettering artist Pip Hall. This one is ‘October’, which reminds us of the ‘Harvest of the Hills’ and auctions.

Sandstone - ‘A desert wind, grain by grain, laid down these rocks. How did we trace a path through the ancient dunes?’

Limestone - ‘A million million blanched and compacted shells. How did we swim through the drift and not perish?’

The standing stones near the bottom gate, when you get that far, are ‘November’ and ‘Tupping Time’.

‘Through hazels and alders, softly or in spate,

Eden moves in the valley it has hallowed

From Mallerstang to the shifting Solway sands

Long may the dipper be regent here, piping

The full reach of this ground; the only monarch

Kingfisher, turquoise jewel, arrowy at the dusk.’

The ‘Poetry Path’, the first of its kind, was the brainchild of Dick Capel of the East Cumbria Countryside Project, a beautifully produced booklet with map and packed with information is available from the Tourist Information Centre, priced £2. Also available are the new Discover Eden booklets by East Cumbria Countryside Project.

A little further on there is a muddy track to the right, heading towards the river; follow this path to find another work of art. This time it is one of the Eden Benchmarks that have been placed along the river Eden. The beautiful rocks that you may sit on are the work of Laura White and entitled ‘Passing’.

Witches and Fairies

Back to the main footpath, there are two green iron benches to take a rest in the clearing. I think you will find most of our native trees represented in this wood. There are Mountain Ash, Sycamore, Beech, Hazel, Hawthorne, Alder and some younger Rowan and Oak saplings.

Wild flowers are everywhere and in spring wild garlic carpets the wooded areas. All the better, for bats are seen at dusk and early evening together with a loud hooting owl to complete the scene.

In years gone by, locals used a branch from the Rowan tree over doors to ward off evil spirits. A Rowan wood cream stir-stick prevented bewitching of the churn.

To the left there is an area with grass, wild flowers and steam bed ideally suited for making fairy dens and playing games of imagination.

Dipping

Follow the footpath over the tree roots, round the bend as the river comes into view in full splendour. Water rushes over rocks and cascades in stereo. Mature trees in their majesty on the opposite bank are planted in deep red sandstone cliffs from where Stenkrith is said to take its name, red rock.

Next to the gnarled bent Hawthorne tree is another of the green painted iron seats to sit and watch the river in full flow or venture onto the rocks if river levels allow.

You are in the territory of that Kingfisher.

Down a little further, clamber down the bank to the muddy beach following the squeals of laughter as children love to swim in this deep pool.

The waterfalls at this end make brilliant waterslides providing you have some thick trousers. This is also the scene of the finish line for the annual duck race.

As the river turns the corner, a Heron can often be seen watching on the shingle beach.

Salmon swim up as far as the bridges in late October and Trout are plentiful.

The Kirkby Stephen and District Angling Association will give you any addition information if you are a fly fishing enthusiast. www.kirkbystephen.net/waters.htm

When we have had a period of dry weather the river is so low that you can walk up the gorge jumping on the rocks to the bridge, exploring the deep pools in the gaps.

Through the gate at the bottom the path leads to Bollam Lane or over Swingy Bridge in the opposite direction back to Kirkby Stephen.

Millennium Bridge

From the entrance gate at Stenkrith Park take the made up path to the right and follow it along, the arches of the road bridge and the pale blue railings of the award winning Millennium Bridge soon come into view.

The Millennium Bridge İBlackett Ord Consulting Engineers

The Millennium Bridge was designed by Blackett-Ord Consulting Engineers and built with the aid of Millennium Lottery funding by P Mawdsley of Appleby. It was opened in 2002.

The Underworld

Once on the bridge, look down to the right and I am positive you will not be disappointed with the dramatic view below.

This awesome gorge with circular holes scoured out over the centuries and the incessant roar of frightening water as it falls over the rocks through the ravine The violence of the water when in flood is terrifying. Victorians advertised this spectacular scene as ‘Kirkby Stephen Water Falls’ and drew early tourists.

There is a partly collapsed cave system with two small caves named ’The Angels Drainpipe’ and ’The Devils Grinding Mill’ frequented by pot-holers. Do not be tempted unless you are experienced.

The Devil features in several myths and legends associated with this spot.

Some of the river follows a subterranean course and falls into a cavern causing a sound not unlike machinery in motion. This is said to be ‘The Devil’s Mustard Mill’ where his captives are forced to grind his hot mustard far, far below.

Then there is the legend of Deville and his lover, in revenge he threw her in the gorge and then jumped in himself. The two lovers were swallowed by the water.

The largest of the cylindrical hollows is named Coup-Kernan, believed to be from the Danish Kop-kiaerne meaning cup-shaped cavern, and it is said that Druids used it for washing and purification ceremonies.

It's a mythical site for Druidism in shade and solitude. This is also known locally as Cow Carne (pronounce the e) because a cow is said to have fallen down there once.

There is believed to be a stream which goes underground here and comes out in Mellbecks, Kirkby Stephen forming one of the mill becks.

Downstream

On the other side of the bridge the river Eden and Stenkrith Park is laid before you in all is glory as it drops down over the rocks. You will see the hills as a backdrop above the trees.

On the right bank are the ruins of an old mill used to generate electricity for the old Kirkby Stephen Station.

An older mill is believed to have been a little further downstream on this bank accessible from Nateby and a lane from Nateby is still called Mill Lane. The beck from Nateby is named Broad Ing Sike.

Another interesting legend is that of William Kitching, Stonemason, said to have died in 1834 aged 84. There was a narrow channel known as ‘The Span Dub’ where the gap between the rocks was narrow enough to be spanned by a human hand.

William said he would be the last man to span the Eden and having stretched his hand across the gap took out his walling hammer and broke off some of the rock increasing the gap. He no doubt won his wager.

‘It was varra bad on him; he sudn’t hev dun it.

It was a girt cuer ’osity,t’ span t’Eden’

The road bridge above was built by the Turnpike Trust about 1825 and then altered to include the railway bridge in 1861. The tollgate was at Bollamgate (Bollam Cottage). In 1828 it was recorded that there was a solid stone bridge on this site called Staincroft or Stonecroft bridge which lends credence to the theory that Stenkrith means ’stoney ford’, I would not want to ford here though. Even earlier traffic went via Hartley Lane avoiding this deep gorge.

Railway Past

Cross to the end of Millennium Bridge and turn right to see the reverse of the bridge and the remains of the old iron railway bridge that spanned the river and took the line into the old Kirkby Stephen Station, the Pennine View caravan site occupies the railway sidings.

You will see the large rocks and river below of High Stenkrith.

Turn round and see the tree lined Northern Viaduct Trust footpath before you, framed by the square bridge.

The disused railway was the Stainmore Railway Company section from Barnard Castle to Tebay which opened in 1861.

The South Durham Railway carried coal from the Durham pits to the steelworks in Barrow-in-Furness, passenger services followed. It was closed in 1962 with the Hartley Quarry siding remaining open until 1975.

This was a very busy junction with lines into Barnard Castle and Durham, Tebay and Kendal as well as Penrith and is still missed today as we struggle with public transport in our area.

For further information on the valuable lost line visit the Stainmore Railway Company at the old station where they are restoring the building and old carriages every weekend.

The NVT footpath takes in the spectacular views of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the majestic Podgill and Merrygill viaducts. The famous Thomas Bouch who designed the first Firth of Tay Bridge, for which he was knighted, engineered these beautiful viaducts.

You will also see restored railway buildings and information together with the modern architectural statement of Hartley Quarry against its wonderful backdrop. Pick up a leaflet at the Tourist Information Centre.

www.nvt.org.uk

High Stenkrith

Further along Nateby road, on the right hand side tucked besides the beginning of the bridge is a green painted wooden gate signposted to Wharton. Through the gate and careful on the steps, the River Eden is laid out ahead. You may see the reverse side of the bridges. The river takes on a different feeling out of the wooded Stenkrith Park.

Follow the narrow footpath beside Stenkrith House garden wall to the steps against the old railway bridge pillars to see the huge rocks and deep mysterious pools over the railings. On the opposite bank there is a rock formation known as ’The Blacksmith’s Shop’ because it resembles an anvil and bellows,

Up the rocks on the other side of the bridge runs to the stile and into the field. The private steps and gate on the right lead into the Pennine View caravan site.

Turn right and from here you can spend some time by the river or follow the riverside path to Wharton Hall or the back way into Nateby via Nateby old deer park. All most enjoyable and having their attractions.